As the giant ship edged gracefully out of the harbour and my daughter Jemima and I watched the Manhattan skyline getting slowly smaller, I thought of my late granny and brother. We’d set sail for a trip across the Atlantic, on the same voyage that they had embarked on almost 40 years ago.
It was the trip of a lifetime for my grandmother, Madge, back in 1987 who had recently lost her husband, George, to cancer. And she chose my then 16-year-old brother, Charlie, as her companion.
They did it in style, flying by Concorde to New York and staying at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, before boarding the legendary QE2.
A ship fit for royalty
At the time, the QE2, named for Queen Elizabeth II, had a huge cultural cachet among the celebrities du jour. Everyone from Princess Diana to Mick Jagger and Jackie Kennedy Onassis sailed on the QE2. It was so famous that it was even referenced in television shows, from The Golden Girls to Victoria Wood.
Launched by the late Queen in 1967, the ship was renowned for its opulent staterooms and grand lobby – and for being the only cruise liner to have a Harrods store on board. The staterooms (notably the Queens Grill and the Princess Grill), with their private balconies and crystal glass cabinets), were, quite literally, built for royals. We
Taking a bite of the Big Apple – 21st-century style
I was only nine when my granny and brother visited New York and I was hugely envious that he got to go while I was at school. But as we checked into our New York hotel, I felt as though I was finally following in their footsteps: albeit in a slightly less decadent way (we flew Virgin rather than Concorde and stayed at the more affordable William Hotel Midtown).
Yet the hotel had everything we needed, including our own balcony and kitchenette. It was brilliantly located too, just off Fifth Avenue and a short walk from the Empire State Building, which has a timeless feel with its grand art deco lobby and breathtaking views.
© Getty ImagesKeen to take the time to explore the city with my 12-year-old daughter, we also visited the more contemporary Edge Observation Deck and the Jellycat Diner in FAO Schwarz toy shop to pick up a plush. We did manage to squeeze in some more refined moments, with a delicious dinner at The Standard Grill (arguably the best Caesar salad in the city) and another at Japanese restaurant Nobu in Downtown (the Wagyu dumplings washed down with a lychee martini were superb).
All aboard the Queen Mary 2 – the world’s last traditional ocean liner
After three fun-filled days in the Big Apple, it was time for our Transatlantic crossing to Southampton. As we approached the Queen Mary 2 (QM2) at the Brooklyn terminal, we were stunned by the sheer size and scale. “Wow, is that our ship? It’s massive!” Jemima said, aghast.
© CunardAt that moment, I recalled first seeing the picture of my brother and granny on board the QE2 and wondering if I would ever get to sail on a ship like that. So it felt quite special to climb on board with my daughter, 39 years later.
The ship, which was built and christened in 2004, is now considered the world’s last traditional ocean liner – built especially to cross the sea. At 1,132 feet (345 meters) she is 147 feet longer than the Eiffel Tower.
© CunardWould she, I wondered, have the same sense of glamour of her predecessor, the QE2?
I needn’t have worried. The moment we stepped on board, we were transported back in time, thanks to the pictures of royals and stars from my granny’s time that surrounded us. The vast central lobby, with its gold embossed details and curved staircase, had a timeless elegance. The grandeur continued when we were shown to our stateroom, a Princess Grill suite on the 10th floor. Every detail, from the walk-in wardrobe to the Egyptian cotton sheets, was designed with comfort and luxury in mind.
© CunardRetro glamour and a roster of activities
Each day on board, we were given a daily programme of activities which, I imagine, would have also been a hit in the 1980s. From ballroom dancing to bridge, the entertainment was clearly aimed at a more mature clientele, but we enjoyed the trivia quiz, dressing up for one of their famous Gala Evenings, the Masquerade Ball, and watching a live dance show in the theatre.
Granny had been a keen ballroom dancer and classical music lover, and I think that she would have thoroughly enjoyed the Cocktail Pianist Emmanuel Vass in the Chart Room. She may not have been one for cocktails, but she sure loved a gin and tonic. I can picture her sitting there tapping her foot to the music.
© Renchia Ingram/CunardTreated like Queens
Despite being surrounded by so much glamour, the highlight of our week was probably the incredible service from the wonderful staff in the Princess Grill Restaurant, who were so warm and welcoming. They rapidly got to know our favourite drinks (a Shirley Temple for my daughter, Whispering Angel for me) and we feasted on lobster and flaming Crepe Suzette until we could barely move.
© CunardModern touches bring the QM2 into the 21st century
I’m sure my granny, who was known as a ‘looker’ in her day, would have enjoyed dressing for dinner and would probably have worn something sparkly with big shoulder pads. Yet while many of the historic traditions, such as dressing up for dinner and afternoon tea in the Grills Lounge, have been preserved, the QM2 has adapted to more modern times.
The ship, which is steered by the charming Captain Aseem A. Hashmi, who gave us a quick tour of The Bridge operating room, manages to combine the elegance and quintessential British tradition of the past with the perks of today, from great wifi to Matcha lattes.
© CunardThe buffet in the Kings Court was relaxed and, at times, quite frenzied. We enjoyed watching an England World Cup match in the Illuminations Theatre (although we didn’t love it when England lost and the German couple who had been sitting on the next table let out a huge cheer). No doubt, my granny and brother – lifelong Aston Villa fans – would have loved it too.
A journey made of micro-moments and reminiscence
It was the micro-moments that I probably savoured the most, though, including the chats with fellow guests – from wealthy New Yorkers to retired farmers from Lincolnshire.
On our last night we raised a glass to my granny and the uncle my daughter never got to meet. Then, we finally plucked up the courage to ask celebrity music producer Benny Blanco (aka Mr Selena Gomez), who Jemima had been mooning over all week, for a picture. He willingly obliged.
That picture captures all that the QM2 offers in one neat snapshot: an impressive, state-of-the-art deck, a smiling celebrity and a glorious sunset. It’s a voyage we won’t forget – and one which made me feel that bit closer to my late granny and brother.
How to book it: A Transatlantic crossing with Cunard about the Queen Mary 2 from New York to Southampton starts from £1,929pp for a Britannia Balcony Stateroom. A Princess Grille Suite starts at £4,249pp booked with a Cunard Fare. Both are based on two people sharing and exclude flights. Rooms at The William Midtown start from £260 per night.
