Is micellar water good or bad? A dermatologist breaks down the science

If you keep up with everything happening in the beauty world, you’ll no doubt have noticed the debate about using micellar water cropping up again. It’s a topic that draws conflicting opinions, and even though many of us have been using this product daily for years, it seems the muddle over when and how to use it still hasn’t been sorted out. 

That’s why I got in touch with Dr Morales Raya, a dermatologist and expert in aesthetic medicine and laser treatments, who is also the director of his namesake clinic, to get the definitive guide on micellar water.

First off, what exactly is micellar water?

“Micellar water is a facial cleansing product that uses micelles – structures capable of attracting and lifting impurities, make-up and excess oil from the skin. It’s gentle yet effective, allowing for a thorough cleanse without being harsh, which makes it ideal as the initial step in your routine.”

Can it be used every day?

“Yes, it is perfectly suitable for daily use. In the morning, it helps remove the excess sebum that builds up overnight, and in the evening it’s useful as a first step to take off make-up and impurities. Its mildness permits continuous use without causing irritation, provided you use a micellar water formulated for your specific skin type and always rinse it off afterwards.”

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As a dermatologist, do you recommend for all skincare routines?

“Yes, micellar water is suitable for most skin types, as long as it is used correctly. For oily skin, it’s ideal as the first step of the double cleanse, as it’s often preferred over oils, and for dry or sensitive skin, it can be paired with a gentle cleanser that respects the skin barrier.”

Are there any cases where you advise against using it?

“Rather than advising against it entirely, I’d say it shouldn’t be relied upon as the sole step for skin that needs a deeper clean. In those cases, the recommendation would be to use a specific cleanser depending on the skin type, such as a foaming one or one with gentle exfoliating properties, to ensure a more thorough clean. For drier skin, it can be substituted with cleansing oils, provided they are always followed by rinsing with water.”

What is the correct way to use micellar water?

“It should be applied with a cotton pad and gently swept across the entire face. If you use it as part of your evening routine, it’s advisable to follow up with a cleanser adapted to your skin type. If it’s used as the only cleansing step (although this is often insufficient for oily skin), it’s important to ensure you rinse well.”

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Another very common question is: do you have to rinse off micellar water?

“Yes, it is highly advisable to rinse it off, particularly if it’s used as the only cleansing step. This ensures no residue is left on the skin that could interfere with subsequent treatments or cause dryness or irritation for more reactive skin types.”

There is also a lot of confusion over whether it should be the first or second step of a double cleanse.

“For oily skin, it is recommended as the first step of the double cleanse, acting as a substitute for cleansing oils. In the morning, it can be sufficient on its own, although it’s preferable to use a traditional cleanser specific to your skin type if you’re only doing one cleansing step. In the evening, it’s best to follow it with an appropriate cleanser.”

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Why do you think micellar water receives equal parts adoration and criticism?

“Opinions are divided because, while it is a practical and straightforward product, it is sometimes expected to replace more specific cleansers. Its effectiveness ultimately depends on how it is incorporated into your routine and your specific skin type.”